Some postgraduate thesis and countless newspaper articles have been written around the traditional La Mariscal neighborhood, located in the north center of Quito. Despite this, there is still plenty to share and talk about when it comes to the Mariscal.
With almost 102 years of existence, this characteristic piece of the Ecuadorian capital concentrates a vibrant and changing social dynamic. The strategic point of La Mariscal or the heart of the neighborhood is the Plaza Foch. It is also known as “la zona”, an appellation legitimized by Ecuadorians and strangers.
From that central point any guest can branch out to explore! To taste a fine chocolate with exotic roots from the Amazon, to wearing a genuine straw hat (Panama Hat). These are imperative actions for those who visit the neighborhood for the first time.
Past
The history of this neighborhood, which is located between the streets Colon and Patria dates from the beginning of the last century. It was the wealthy families who relegated the colonial town of Quito to move to a new urban-style, garden-city project, which was born in the first two decades of the twentieth century.
At that time, the aim was to create a different urban concept where large spaces prevailed. The architecture had North American and European influences. The neighborhood was consolidated with the presence of the Quito elite. Some Jewish families settled in the sector, contributing to the strengthening of trade and setting up a new lifestyle.
Little by little, a cosmopolitan atmosphere began to be evident, which played harmoniously with the Andean influence of this region. Mariscal is the pioneer neighborhood that gives rise to modern Quito. In the 70s the State made large investments in infrastructure, due to the famous “oil boom”. This neighborhood would begin to house matrices of banks, renowned hotels, health houses, schools, among others.
Its next neighbor, starting from Foch square to the south is Parque El Ejido, one of the most visited public spaces in Quito, even some embassies were in that sector. The embassy of the United States, for example, was one of them, as well as that of France and other local government agencies.
The House of Ecuadorian Culture, promoting aesthetic work, such as theater, dance and cinema give a relaxed air to the environment. For the last 15 years, the capital Municipality considers this sector as one of the most important references of modern Quito, where commercial and tourist activities with high impact are concentrated. It is estimated that almost 1,500 tourists arrive from different parts of the world every week.
Heritage
The area has 200 heritage buildings, including the church of Santa Teresita, a neo-Gothic Catholic temple. In many of the buildings you will find local businesses, as well as all kinds of hotels and hostels. There are also dozens of restaurants that offer the best of local cuisine and international foods; such as European to Middle East and Asia.
The craft market
It is definitely not the only place to visit when it comes to shopping for commemorative items. However, it is the oldest and most complete in the entire city. Similarly, it is the busiest. Located on Jorge Washington, between Queen Victoria and Juan León Mera. Starting from Foch Square, in the direction of El Ejido.
It has almost 200 stands and they serve the public from Monday to Sunday. This space brings together artisans and artists from Ecuador, who didn’t have a designated area to sell and would gather up and down Amazonas Ave to sell their products. In an attempt to reorder, this space was opened 20 years ago by the municipality. Embroidery, native fabrics, handicrafts, musical instruments, leather or straw hats, typical clothing, including Andean music, jewelry and other wide range of products, are those offered in the craft market. The market is a good option to find original gifts or to take a souvenir from Ecuador and even some local snacks.
In 2004 a fire consumed much of this site and it was rebuilt in its entirety in record time, motivated by the presence of the international Miss Universe pageant, where contestants from 81 nations visited Quito.
The artisan market preserves, without a doubt, a form of indigenous organization. Also, the handicrafts, for the most part, are made with ancestral indigenous techniques.
Plaza Foch
In previous lines an approach was made to this place, also known as Plaza El Quinde, in honor of the emblematic hummingbird. This space is located at the intersection of Mariscal Foch and Reina Victoria.
Countless cafes, bars, clubs, luxury hotels and hostels converge here. Fast food restaurants offer everything from hamburgers and hot dogs to shawarmas as well as Hindu, Chinese, Mexican, Peruvian, Argentinian and Brazilian food. Ecuador has its representation with several local typical foods, especially seafood, very frequented at dawn, after finishing the party in any bar in the area.
Plaza Foch also offers live music every weekend. To this is added the Asara fair, organized by the Association of Applied Arts. Its offer focuses mainly on the elaboration of Tagua wood crafts and selling organic products.
What to visit in La Mariscal?
If the tourist plan includes a night out, the neighborhood offers clubs of all kinds. There are those crowded drinking troughs, acclimated with rock and places with specialized music in some genre.
On Calama St you can find NO Bar, one of the oldest clubs in Quito as well as Bungalow 6 which is on the same street but the other direction.
A few steps further north, on 12 de Octubre and Veintimilla, is La Juliana. Famous for its Latin party, it combines tropical music of all genres and years with the live show that its band does. Its atmosphere and music invite you to dance until dawn, in a relaxed environment.
La Mariscal also concentrates a considerable number of foreign bars. Such is the case of The Turtle’s Head, an authentic English pub, which combines an excellent selection of songs, with British cuisine ranging from sweet corn salads to a good steak. The atmosphere is always accompanied by a cold beer. Keeping with the international theme bars we have Finn McCools, a traditional Irish bar that offers everything from a Shepherd’s pie to a typical irish stew and some pretty good drinks as well.
Gastronomy
When visiting a new country you surely want to try something traditional, Achiote Restaurant for example, offers llapingachos, locro de papa, among other delicacies of Creole cuisine. It can be found on Reina Victoria and Juan Rodríguez St.
Baalbek, awaits with an extensive menu of Lebanese food. In addition to the exquisite dishes, the attention and kindness of the employees and the owner towards the visitors stand out.
If you are looking for a nice sweet drink after a long day of walking around, La Frutería is a place that offers natural juices based on organic fruits from the four regions of Ecuador.
A cultural pole
Since 1918 numerous families of the Quito elite had already settled down, who were looking for noble spaces, close to nature and cultural activities. Bookstores, theaters and shops were founded at the time. In 1922, 100 years after the Battle of Pichincha, which sealed the freedom of what is now known as Ecuador, the sector was given the name of Marshal Antonio José de Sucre, in honor of the Venezuelan hero, great Colombian and libertarian figure of Ecuador.
Currently, El Patio de Comedias is considered one of the oldest theaters in Quito, where several directors and actors, local and foreign, have squandered their talent. There is still an active billboard, with frequent functions and premieres. Something newer is the Mindalae Museum. This museum of craft heritage is dedicated to shamanism, the Andean worldview, ceramics and crafts.
The Casa de la Cultura, in front of Parque El Ejido, houses several theater companies, such as the Cronopio, La Espada de Madera, or the emblematic Ensayo Theater, perhaps the oldest in Quito, with almost 60 years of uninterrupted activity.
This huge building also boasts the National Museum, which provides a tour of the history of aboriginals, thus presenting archaeological samples from the pre-Columbian period that range from anthropomorphic figures to pure gold jewels of incalculable value.
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